Culture

Spring teng leng harvest marks Jrai community’s enduring culinary tradition

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The annual spring harvest of teng leng flowers and young leaves continues to sustain the culinary heritage of the Jrai people in Gia Lai province, where villagers gather the wild plant each year from January to mid-March.

For centuries, the Jrai community has collected teng leng—also called tang liang or then nen—from field edges, forest borders and low hillsides across communes such as Ia Tul, Ia Hiao, Phú Túc, Phú Thiện and Ia Pa. The harvest provides both income and a seasonal ingredient central to traditional dishes.

To pick teng leng flowers, Ms. Nay H’Ru must climb trees about 4 meters high. Photo: Lạc Hà

On a recent afternoon near Chư Mố mountain in Ia Tul commune, villager Nay H’Ru described climbing the 3–6-metre trees to pick the flowers. “When the flowers are in full bloom, I can fill a large basket in about an hour”, she said, noting that gathering takes longer at the beginning and end of the season.

Some residents sell the foraged produce. Siu Vy from Ia Hiao commune said each bunch sells for 5,000–7,000 VND (about USD 0.20–0.28), allowing him to earn more than 300,000 VND (about USD 12) a day during peak season. “That’s significant for daily expenses and Tet preparations. But the trees are becoming scarcer, so we must go farther to find them,” he said.

Teng leng trees produce clusters of white, fragrant flowers and thick, oval leaves with a distinctive bitterness. After harvesting, the leaves and flowers are washed, boiled and squeezed to reduce their sharp taste before being mixed with fish, chicken or beef. Chili and yellow ant salt are commonly added to balance the bitter, spicy, salty and sour notes.

Ms. Nay H’Ru’s joy after gathering a large haul of teng leng leaves and flowers. Photo: Lạc Hà

Residents say young leaves offer the best flavour. “Young teng leng flowers and leaves have a bitterness that cools the body,” said Rơ Ô Huyên from Phú Túc commune. “They can be pounded with chili salt and eaten with pork, beef, goat or grilled fish. Sometimes people roast the leaves to intensify the aroma.”

A jar of yellow ant salt with teng leng leaves and anchovies, sold by Mr. Rcom Dam Mơ Ai for 70,000 VND. Photo: Lạc Hà

In Ayun Pa town, Rcom Dam Mơ Ai has built a small business around the ingredient. Each spring, he buys teng leng to create a specialty salt made from boiled or roasted flowers and leaves mixed with salt, chili, MSG, yellow ants and anchovies. He said he plans to produce several hundred jars this season, selling each 200g jar at 70,000 VND (about USD 2.80).

Celebrated for its deep connection to the mountains and forests, teng leng remains a signature component of Jrai cuisine. The ingredient appears widely on spring menus in restaurants across the region, reflecting its role in preserving the community’s culinary identity.

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